Our coatings are built on silicon dioxide (SiO₂) chemistry. During curing, the formula cross-links into a dense, glass-like layer that bonds to the surface and rates 9H on the pencil hardness scale.

It is a rating from the pencil hardness test, a standard method coating manufacturers use to measure scratch resistance. Technicians drag graphite of increasing hardness across the cured surface; the highest grade that does not leave a mark determines the rating. 9H is the top of that scale.

Easier washing and maintenance, strong water beading and sheeting, a self-cleaning effect that lets road film rinse away, and a noticeable lift in gloss and depth of color.

Yes. A cured 9H coating resists light swirls, wash marring, and surface scratching. It is not a substitute for paint protection film against rock chips.

Rather than sitting on top like wax, the coating bonds to the clear coat at a molecular level and becomes a new functional layer. That is why it cannot be stripped off by washing the way a wax or sealant can.

Cure time depends on which coating was applied and on temperature and humidity. Ask your installer for the specific window for your vehicle — as a general rule, keep the car dry for the first several days after application.

Use a pH-neutral, coating-safe wash. Avoid harsh degreasers and anything with wax or gloss additives, which can clog the coating's hydrophobic properties. A rinseless wash solution works well for lifting dirt without scratching, and a ceramic booster spray after drying will refresh the slickness and water behavior between full washes.

They are not competing products; they solve different problems. Paint protection film is a thick urethane film engineered to absorb rock chips and scratches. A cured ceramic coating is only microns thick and will not stop impact damage. What it does do is defend against environmental fallout — bird droppings, bug residue, tree sap, track rubber — and make all of it far easier to remove. Choose a coating if you want easy maintenance plus added shine and depth. Choose film if you want real physical protection against road debris.

It is a very common combination. Paint protection film handles rock chips and road debris, and coating applied over the top adds hydrophobics, self-cleaning, and gloss to the film itself. You end up with a car that is both protected and effortless to keep clean.

Yes. Applied over a matte or satin surface, it will not add gloss — it deepens the finish and makes the surface easier to clean while preserving the matte look.

No. Self-healing is a property of paint protection film, which reflows light scratches with heat. Ceramic coatings resist scratching but do not repair themselves.

No. Glass coating is not windshield protection film and offers no impact resistance. Its purpose is to make the glass strongly hydrophobic, so rain sheets off at speed and wipers work less.

Use an ammonia-free, anti-static glass cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Skip household window cleaners.

Yes. It shields exterior plastic and trim from UV exposure, which is what causes the chalky, faded look, and it restores richness to trim that has already dulled.

Wash normally with a pH-neutral or rinseless wash solution. No dressings or protectants are needed on top.

Yes. It is formulated for the high heat these surfaces see and helps brake dust rinse off instead of baking on.

No. On factory interiors it dries clear, lets the material breathe, and leaves the original color and hand feel intact.

It significantly reduces staining by causing spills to bead up so they can be blotted before they soak in. It is stain resistance, not waterproofing — the interior is not sealed against liquid.

Automotive fabric, carpet, leather, and vinyl. Do not apply it to Alcantara or suede. All surfaces must be professionally cleaned first, since the coating locks in whatever is already there.

Yes — carpets and floor mats are good candidates, provided they are deep cleaned and fully dry before application.